Dinosaurs roam the earth still.
Or so I was led to believe by Fred on our previous trip south on the Aboriginal business road from Wingellina to Tjuntjuntjara.
"I just saw a low-lying dinosaur", he exclaimed as we bounced along the two wheel sandy track.
I was disbelieving, to say the least.
This time, proof.
What do you think?
Should we send out the authorities?
Showing posts with label desert landscape. Show all posts
Showing posts with label desert landscape. Show all posts
Saturday, June 25, 2011
Monday, June 20, 2011
Day dreaming

Dreaming of a day when unspoken words are spoken, and paths ahead converge and merge without my even noticing clear space ahead.
I was asked the other day if I plan to settle here. My response was that it was not possible. The simple answer: it's not my country.
I have a spot picked out that would be perfect for a little house. Something small, self-sufficient. Solar powered. Open verandah across the spinifex to the distant ranges. No fences.
Today, while going for a walk to a nearby hill, the perfect camping spot arose and enfolded. I could see small family groups sitting around a fire, winnowing and sifting. Or swags and a camp oven, settling in for the night.
Weaving my way around and over silent spinifex, poised to pounce, I noticed tiny tracks. Animals. Feet. Ancient tyre tracks. Not nearly so ancient as all around me.
It's not my country. But I feel it, still.
Saturday, March 19, 2011
Long days at work
One of the challenges of the job is the long hours travel.
This week, we unexpectedly had to go to Blackstone from Warburton, twice. In two days. After driving 5 and a half hours return on Thursday, I couldn't face another long drive again on Friday. Thankfully, my boss agreed to us chartering the plane (this being one of the rare times when capitalising on the moment was best).
When we went by car, we could only spend 3 hours with clients and even then got back well after dark. Two thirds of the time spent travelling. By plane, it was only 1 and half hours, with 4 hours client time. The cost difference was enormous, $1150 for the 6 hour charter. $140 diesel for the car trip. It's hard to weigh up the relative benefits. Time in the car is a much better space for preparation, and sharing with colleagues (an indispensable part of the job). On the other hand, it exerts considerable wear and tear on you and car. The flight was quick, efficient and got the job done in a classic 'fly in, fly out' approach. Not the best look, and we have no idea what happened in the community after we left. But we were home for tea, and I guess that counts for something.
Courtesy of my new Flip videocam, we now have some footage of the two trips for your viewing pleasure. No pictures of communities or community members, as it wasn't appropriate. There will be some in the future no doubt. Enjoy the scenery.
This week, we unexpectedly had to go to Blackstone from Warburton, twice. In two days. After driving 5 and a half hours return on Thursday, I couldn't face another long drive again on Friday. Thankfully, my boss agreed to us chartering the plane (this being one of the rare times when capitalising on the moment was best).
When we went by car, we could only spend 3 hours with clients and even then got back well after dark. Two thirds of the time spent travelling. By plane, it was only 1 and half hours, with 4 hours client time. The cost difference was enormous, $1150 for the 6 hour charter. $140 diesel for the car trip. It's hard to weigh up the relative benefits. Time in the car is a much better space for preparation, and sharing with colleagues (an indispensable part of the job). On the other hand, it exerts considerable wear and tear on you and car. The flight was quick, efficient and got the job done in a classic 'fly in, fly out' approach. Not the best look, and we have no idea what happened in the community after we left. But we were home for tea, and I guess that counts for something.
Courtesy of my new Flip videocam, we now have some footage of the two trips for your viewing pleasure. No pictures of communities or community members, as it wasn't appropriate. There will be some in the future no doubt. Enjoy the scenery.
Thursday, March 10, 2011
Verdant in deed (yirtangu)
It may be the desert but it's not brown. It's not that sandy. It's not that hot.
Now, with unseasonal rains, it's verdant, lush, luminous, cool and somewhat muddy. A green so vibrant as to knock you into submission.
Yirtangu. In 2007, I once travelled a delightful trip with an Aboriginal colleague from Wanarn to Warburton. With us, an experienced woman who understood a lot of language and even more of its contemporary complexity in the Lands.
The countryside was as green then as now. It sparked an unusual conversation amongst us. We exchanged words. Verdant. A particular word in English, evoking the landscape around us. Not well known, but perfectly suited to our time.
Yirtangu. The Ngaanyatjarra equivalent, given in response after a moment's thoughtful contemplation. Language rich with its knowledge of seasons, rich with its reckoning of daily life. Rich with the lives of ancestors before him.
Later that weekend, a woman came to sell me a painting. I had tired then of buying small canvases, rough, crafted for a box of groceries. As soon as it was unrolled, however, the woman in the car and I both smiled. Yirtangu. For a $100, a box in deed, memories of the lush green desert then and now.
For Inge and Robin
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Coming in to Blackstone today from Warburton |
Yirtangu. In 2007, I once travelled a delightful trip with an Aboriginal colleague from Wanarn to Warburton. With us, an experienced woman who understood a lot of language and even more of its contemporary complexity in the Lands.
The countryside was as green then as now. It sparked an unusual conversation amongst us. We exchanged words. Verdant. A particular word in English, evoking the landscape around us. Not well known, but perfectly suited to our time.
Yirtangu. The Ngaanyatjarra equivalent, given in response after a moment's thoughtful contemplation. Language rich with its knowledge of seasons, rich with its reckoning of daily life. Rich with the lives of ancestors before him.
Later that weekend, a woman came to sell me a painting. I had tired then of buying small canvases, rough, crafted for a box of groceries. As soon as it was unrolled, however, the woman in the car and I both smiled. Yirtangu. For a $100, a box in deed, memories of the lush green desert then and now.
For Inge and Robin
Monday, December 20, 2010
A day in the bush
Last weekend, I convinced Fred that it was a good idea to get up at 6am to meet a convoy going bush at 8am, and drive for 11 hours for the sheer enjoyment of it. This was last Sunday's big day out.
We don't normally set off for such long journeys for fun. Our usual jaunt to shake off remote cabin fever would be about 3 or 4 hours (max) - sometimes it's just up the road to 'Singing Rocks', so named because the stunning tumbling of rocks are not only artfully designed but also tunefully amusing. With a high iron density (or something like that), when you tap them with a smaller stone, the rocks of different sizes give off lovely notes of earthy musicality. It's the local tourist stop for a trip to Blackstone, and within 15k of town, it makes an easy trip out.
By contrast, this was a bush adventure of another order. Inspired by the enthusiasm of the Warakurna coppers, we hoped on board and made the extra two hours of early morning travel to meet them on the road. On arrival at the turnoff, beautifully timed with 3 minutes to spare, we found the Blackstone nurse and her partner also waiting. When the convoy arrived shortly after, we were 7 vehicles in all.
The first stop was Gill's Pinnacle. A short distance away, a rocky entry, and a stunning view. The near permanent waterhole must have been a welcome rest point for the locals not so long ago. As always happens on these outings, my mind ticks over relentlessly, trying to imagine what life must have been like back then. Wandering through the bush from rockhole to rockhole, sheltering in caves or holes dug into the sand dunes in extreme heat or the summer storms. Following the ebb and flow of seasonal produce, meeting small groups and moving on, coming together for large ceremonies of real significance before bursting back into the quiet rhythms of family life. I know I romanticise, but from the little I've read of traditional times, there is a deep simplicity and connection to country in their lives then that is missing from all our lives now, to differing degrees.
The stark beauty of the landscape, with its subtle variations, makes a long slow trip like this worthwhile. The hours flew by as we wove through the sand dunes, past groves of desert oaks, and into waves of spinifex. Small purple wildflowers, set in their foil of grey green foliage, break away along the edges of the road. Knarly trees brushing against the car doors, knocking flat side mirrors as if to assert their natural right to rule. The vehicles heave and jolt, like land-locked boats in the desert, pressing ever forward with the strange fervour of all battles.
And after we pass, the quiet returns. The animal rumble of mechanical beasts fades. The strange Sunday vacationers, with their packed lunches and spare matches are like a momentary vision of madness, and peace returns again. The twitter of little birds, the soft scurry of goannas as they scoot from bush to shrub, the quiet persistence of a waiting thorny devil, poised for action as ants make their last fatal journey past his flickering tongue. The faint memory of a road cleaved through virgin bush, slowly but steadily, reclaimed again.
We don't normally set off for such long journeys for fun. Our usual jaunt to shake off remote cabin fever would be about 3 or 4 hours (max) - sometimes it's just up the road to 'Singing Rocks', so named because the stunning tumbling of rocks are not only artfully designed but also tunefully amusing. With a high iron density (or something like that), when you tap them with a smaller stone, the rocks of different sizes give off lovely notes of earthy musicality. It's the local tourist stop for a trip to Blackstone, and within 15k of town, it makes an easy trip out.
View from east of Gill's Pinnacle |
The first stop was Gill's Pinnacle. A short distance away, a rocky entry, and a stunning view. The near permanent waterhole must have been a welcome rest point for the locals not so long ago. As always happens on these outings, my mind ticks over relentlessly, trying to imagine what life must have been like back then. Wandering through the bush from rockhole to rockhole, sheltering in caves or holes dug into the sand dunes in extreme heat or the summer storms. Following the ebb and flow of seasonal produce, meeting small groups and moving on, coming together for large ceremonies of real significance before bursting back into the quiet rhythms of family life. I know I romanticise, but from the little I've read of traditional times, there is a deep simplicity and connection to country in their lives then that is missing from all our lives now, to differing degrees.
Winding through in convoy |
From Gill's Pinnacle, we set off in earnest. While Warakurna was a mere 50k to the west, we turned east and committed to the road ahead. 250k in total. Normally, this trip would take about 3 hours. On gravel roads regularly graded and maintained. The back road we took, once we left Tjukurla, was so overgrown as to almost disappear at one point. This was proved when we found ourselves winding in convoy through a densely overgrown area looking for anything resembling a track. The convoy slowed and parked in confused directions, waiting for our leaders to right us again. In that case, we had unwittingly veered onto an overgrown airstrip, with its faint raised edges (enough to give a suggestion of a road), and an old windsock pole (minus a windsock that would have helpfully identified it as an airstrip). This particular strip must have been made more than 20 years ago, probably for mining exploration, and was now so covered in low shrubs and bushes as to have effectively disappeared. If Fred had not identified the windsock pole, I'm sure we would have wandered out of there, like a disjointed caterpillar, none the wiser.
The stark beauty of the landscape, with its subtle variations, makes a long slow trip like this worthwhile. The hours flew by as we wove through the sand dunes, past groves of desert oaks, and into waves of spinifex. Small purple wildflowers, set in their foil of grey green foliage, break away along the edges of the road. Knarly trees brushing against the car doors, knocking flat side mirrors as if to assert their natural right to rule. The vehicles heave and jolt, like land-locked boats in the desert, pressing ever forward with the strange fervour of all battles.
Desert oaks in artful formation |
And after we pass, the quiet returns. The animal rumble of mechanical beasts fades. The strange Sunday vacationers, with their packed lunches and spare matches are like a momentary vision of madness, and peace returns again. The twitter of little birds, the soft scurry of goannas as they scoot from bush to shrub, the quiet persistence of a waiting thorny devil, poised for action as ants make their last fatal journey past his flickering tongue. The faint memory of a road cleaved through virgin bush, slowly but steadily, reclaimed again.
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